• Casa Moreno

Casa Moreno: Seville’s Best Kept Local Secret


Address: Calle Gamazo, 7, Seville, Spain

Hours: Monday – Friday from 8:00am to 3:30pm & 6:00pm to 10:30pm, Saturday from 10:00am to 3:30pm, closed Sundays

Price: montaditos: €2.00 –  €2.50 raciones: €8.00 –  €18.00

Contact: phone: (+34) 954 228 315

Try the: montadito de tortilla con chorizo y queso fundido, montadito de pringa, montadito de sobrasada con queso fundido, montadito de queso cabrales

Type: bar, historic tavern

Go for: breakfast, lunch, snack, coffee, drinks

Casa Moreno, the oldest existing ultramarino, or grocery store, in Sevilla is still serving it’s original purpose, and then some. Apart from stocking a bounty of quality canned and bulk foods, cheeses and charcuterie, Casa Moreno contains a hidden bar that most tourist never come across. Upon entering the store, you find yourself surrounded by latas stacked with precision, like a giant wall of colorful Jenga pieces, take one out and you risk bringing the whole structure down.

The space is small and would probably send the slightly claustrophobic running for the door, but don’t let that put you off; stoping for something to eat at Casa Moreno is an experience anyone who wants to get a glimpse of the local lifestyle can’t pass on. Make your way towards the back of the store and you will come upon a narrow bar that extends into an equally narrow corridor. Cozy up to the bar and come to terms with the fact that you will certainly stand out from the crowd.

There is no real kitchen at Casa Moreno, so the food is inherently simple, but the pure flavor of the products isn’t something that you would want to mask with excess ingredients or superfluous cooking techniques. If you’re thirsty, there is an extensive selection of beverages to choose from, particularly wines, and no one will judge what you order, even if it’s still technically morning. You get the feeling that people who frequent Casa Moreno are on a first name basis with one another and probably have been patrons here all of their lives. This is a place where you come to understand the simple pleasures of a media mañana (late morning snack) consisting of a montadito (small sandwich) with a tercio (33 cl beer) and it’s easy to imagine it becoming something of a ritual.